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Kurogane, Coal, and a French Restaurant

2026.08.25

Kurogane, Coal, and a French Restaurant

Looking at the title, you probably cannot see how these three things are related.

Sorry for the confusing title.

In short, this is the story of a Sunday day trip combining railways and gourmet food.

I rode several trains that day, but the main event was the Chichibu Railway’s SL Paleo Express, pulled by a steam locomotive.

It is the easiest steam locomotive train to reach from Tokyo.

I had planned to take the Green Car on the Shonan-Shinjuku Line from Ikebukuro to Kumagaya, the starting station, but service had been suspended due to a major earthquake in the early hours of the morning.

I quickly changed my route, taking the Saikyo Line to Omiya and then the Toki Shinkansen to Kumagaya.

The Saikyo Line is an everyday train for me, but I unexpectedly got to ride the E7 Series on the Joetsu Shinkansen for the first time, which lifted my spirits from the very morning.

It was only one stop to Kumagaya, but the Shinkansen reached its top speed of 275 km/h, which was a real treat!

At the beginning of the trip: the E7 Series Shinkansen I have long admired (this photo was taken at Tokyo Station on another day).
On the mountainous Joetsu and Hokuriku Shinkansen lines, 275 km/h is the maximum speed.

We arrived just over ten minutes after leaving Omiya.

When I stepped onto the Chichibu Railway platform, the C58 locomotive was already waiting, prepared for departure and trailing smoke from its chimney.

That day’s train was running in collaboration with Garigari-kun ice pops, and it displayed a special headmark.

The Garigari-kun headmark. It is striking.
A special commemorative ticket. I wanted a Garigari-kun ice pop, too…

Just like the C62 steam locomotive in Galaxy Express 999, a headmark alone makes a train all the more enticing.

Once aboard, I saw that the passengers were all biting into Garigari-kun ice pops.

I assumed they had bought them before boarding, but apparently they had been handed out on the platform.

I had not noticed…

But I pulled myself together—off we go!

With a long, powerful whistle, the train glided away from the platform.

I have ridden the Paleo Express almost every year recently, but this time it seemed to run more smoothly than when I rode it last year.

That said, with a steam locomotive, the jolt on departure and a moderate sway while running are part of what make it feel like a steam locomotive, so I have mixed feelings about it.

I also love the warm feeling of seeing so many people at the stations we pass and along the route, waving to us.

When we wave back from inside the train, our eyes sometimes meet and it feels as though we have connected.

As the fifth-generation owner, I do not usually eat boxed meals on trains, but steam locomotives are an exception. This time as well, I enjoyed a bento I had bought at Omiya Station while looking out the window.

A bento on the Shinkansen does not evoke much of a sense of travel, but one eaten on a steam train or an overnight sleeper cannot help but do so.

As I gazed at the distant Chichibu mountains and the Arakawa River, the two-hour journey flew by.

We had arrived at Ohanabatake, my stop.

Riding all the way to the terminus at Mitsumineguchi is enjoyable too, but it is also nice to get off partway and watch the train depart.

A collaboration with the popular Garigari-kun. Tender locomotives are sleek and handsome indeed. It does not have quite the flowing elegance of a C57, but that gives it an even greater sense of power.
The Series 12 passenger cars are now considered retro rolling stock. They were once used for limited-stop trains such as express services.
A steam locomotive cab: the quintessential man’s workplace.
Can you see the coal residue collected along the window frame? This is another pleasure unique to steam locomotives.
A destination signboard, known as a sabo (short for sideboard or signboard), is irresistible to railway fans.
It seems this shop also collaborated with the Paleo Express several years ago.

And Restaurant Matière, the other destination of this trip, was just a short walk from the station.

I had some time before taking the Laview limited express home, so I searched for a promising restaurant and came across this one.

My instincts were right—this restaurant was an excellent choice.

My expectations were not mistaken.

They are particular about using vegetables from Saitama Prefecture, especially local Chichibu produce, and everything was delicious—from the opening salad to the vegetables served with the main course.

Since I had already eaten a bento, I ordered lightly, but it whetted my appetite and I ended up ordering an extra pasta dish as well.

I would rarely order pasta at a French restaurant, but there was no way the pasta here would not be delicious.

I do regret eating so much that I felt uncomfortably full, but finding such delicious food was even more satisfying, so let us call it worthwhile. ^^

Restaurant Matière is located between Chichibu Railway’s Ohanabatake Station and Seibu-Chichibu Station.
The very first salad was delicious! All of the vegetables used were from within Saitama Prefecture, including Chichibu.
The soup was a summery chilled corn and potato soup.
Not only was the main meat dish delicious, but so were the sauce and accompanying vegetables.
Dessert was house-made blancmange and strawberry ice cream.
After dessert, I added a pasta dish. I truly savored every last plate.

At the facility attached to Seibu-Chichibu Station, inspired by the restaurant, I bought a large quantity of Chichibu vegetables.

Then came the final pleasure: boarding the Laview.

After the train reversed direction at Hanno Station, I enjoyed the view home from the very front row.

What a satisfying day!

And from the very front, no less!
I love the design of the Laview and often come to Ikebukuro just to see it. Today, I got to ride it!
Even the first vestibule you see upon entering the train is yellow. It is a train that lifts your spirits.
Its exceptionally wide windows extend from the ceiling to almost the floor. The seats feel slightly cramped (perhaps because the fifth-generation owner is too large), but they offer a good sense of support. I like the yellow color, too.
Outside the window to the right rises Mount Buko, an iconic symbol of Chichibu.
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